Wheel Bearing Removal

Discussion in 'Australian Motorcycles' started by James Mayfield, Dec 30, 2003.

  1. Ok, how the fudge do I get the little beggers out?

    Same goes for the suspension bearings, although they should be a little

    I don't care if I destroy them completely in the process, there are new ones
    going in.

    I've removed the circlips (I'm not _quite_ that stupid), have suitably WD40d
    everything, and have tried unsucessfully to bash the thing out by jamming a
    screwdriver into the gap and having at it with a hammer. All that ends up
    happening is that the srewdriver slips.

    The service manual says to use special tool ABC123, but I really don't want
    to pay $Arm.Leg for one.

    Ok, so what's the easy way?
    James Mayfield, Dec 30, 2003
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  2. James Mayfield

    Johnnie5 Guest

    I got suspension bearings out using a bar as a drift on the reverse side of
    them to drive em out

    have a good look and you might be able to so the same

    getting them in isn't too hard and if you want to make it easier you can put
    bearings in the freezer and they will shrink and pop in easy
    Johnnie5, Dec 30, 2003
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  3. James Mayfield

    Eddie Guest

    Not sure of the setup but is there any way you can apply a little bit of
    heat to the wheel hub? (gas torch or the like)
    Don't go overboard, just enough to warm the surrounding metal up and then
    try knocking them out with the drift (read screwdriver).

    Eddie, Dec 30, 2003
  4. Enter one big drift!

    Hamish Alker-Jones, Dec 30, 2003
  5. Which raises silly question #2:

    What do you do about the layer of frost which forms on the bearing the
    moment you take it out of the freezer.

    I tried drowning the bearings in grease before freezing them, theory being
    that'll keep the condensation off the rollers, and all that does is cause
    the frost to form on the grease, so you can't wipe it off...
    Intact Kneeslider, Dec 30, 2003
  6. James Mayfield

    Johnnie5 Guest

    how long do you leave em in there for ??
    does it matter ??

    what are you going to do when it rains ??
    Johnnie5, Dec 30, 2003
  7. Well, a fair few hours... steel doesn't have that high a thermal expansion

    The last time I did it, it was a set of CBR600 steering head bearings.
    Greased them up, stuck them back into the little baggie they came in, put
    them in the freezer ~overnight, and they still needed a fair few whacks with
    a soft-blow plastic mallet to get into place.
    Hopefully, be able to rely on whatever seals may be in place to keep the
    water out.
    Intact Kneeslider, Dec 31, 2003
  8. James Mayfield

    Johno Guest

    The master of the L300 carby --> Intact Kneeslider did write..
    IK, Bring them around to work, we have shit loads of liquid nitrogen.

    Johno, Dec 31, 2003
  9. Thanks for the offer, but the semiconductor crew down the corridor from me
    are a lot closer, and their tanks of liquid helium (4.2K as opposed to
    nitrogen's 77K) would do a better job, too.

    If I was really keen, I could always probably talk them into letting me dunk
    the bearing into what's called a dilution refrigerator, which uses an outer
    vacuum jacket, an inner Helium-4 (garden-variety helium) jacket and a
    special heat exchanger pumping on a small container of He-4/He-3 (ultra-rare
    helium isotope with one neutron in the nucleus, not two; they have to make
    it by trapping the hard radiation coming out of nuclear reactors) mixture;
    that gets down to 300mK as a matter of routine, and if you try really hard,

    Contrast that with the temperatures in our machine (which is, recall, a
    camping stove compared to some of the monliths out there), which heats argon
    nuclei to ~400,000K.
    Intact Kneeslider, Dec 31, 2003
  10. James Mayfield

    Doug Cox Guest

    Just don't tap 'em too hard when you're putting them in...

    Doug Cox.
    Work to ride, Ride to work...
    Doug Cox, Dec 31, 2003
  11. James Mayfield

    Johno Guest

    I knew that~

    PS Smack said it was still harsh week - get fucked! ;)
    Johno, Dec 31, 2003
  12. Well, _that_ makes the job easy then, we stick the bearings in the
    dilution refrigerator to shrink them down a bit, then stick the wheel
    into "your machine" to boil all the alloy then turn it into a plasma,
    then use that magic hot metal plasma coating technique to re form the
    wheels around the new bearings :)

    Iain Chalmers, Dec 31, 2003
  13. Gotta admit, it'd make for an aswesome CGI sequence...
    Intact Kneeslider, Dec 31, 2003
  14. Yeah, except its got no fighter planes in it ;-)

    big (so how mych smaller do the bearings get at <1 deg K???)
    Iain Chalmers, Dec 31, 2003
  15. James Mayfield

    Smee Guest

    Intact Kneeslider wrote:

    Hey Marko
    What's the update on your carby problem
    was it the vacuum hoses?
    Smee, Dec 31, 2003
  16. Doesn't look like it. I went through them one by one on Monday afternoon,
    detached, looked over and refitted them, all patient-like. No cracks evident
    on any of them. Started the faken thing up again, the noise was still there.
    The more I listen to it, the more it seems like it's coming from the end of
    the air duct, where the air turns through 90 degrees to go down the carbie's

    They_are_supposed to make a bit of noise as they draw the air in, and what
    I'm hearing is flat enough (no high-pitch component to it) for it to be
    reaching me through some sort of solid barrier, but it does seem a bit
    overly loud.
    Intact Kneeslider, Dec 31, 2003
  17. James Mayfield

    Smee Guest

    Maybe you never noticed the noise before and now that you do it has
    obsessed you. :)
    Smee, Dec 31, 2003
  18. Pretty faken likely... my favourite game on a long-distance drive is "Was
    that noise there 50km ago?", and when I do an oil change on one of the
    bikes, it usually goes like this:

    -drain old oil.
    -refit and tighten sump plug.
    -crack the top on the fresh oil container.
    -check tension on sump plug.
    -fill oil.
    -pass the time it takes for the oil to drain down into the sump by checking
    the tension on the sump plug.
    -top up oil.
    -check tension on the sump plug.
    -top up oil again.
    -check tension on sump plug.
    -screw in oil filler cap.
    -check tension on sump plug.
    Intact Kneeslider, Dec 31, 2003
  19. James Mayfield

    smack Guest

    do you wash your hands every 10 minutes
    smack, Dec 31, 2003
  20. James Mayfield

    glitch1 Guest

    Usually a biggist screwdiver to push any spacer-tubes that might be
    in-betwen the bearings, out of the way (some force is usually essential)
    Then the same screwdriver or big drift to knock them out (hit opposing sides
    alternately, not too hard but with sooomme oomph)
    New bearing-races into freezer for about 30-60 mins, wipe frost off, coat
    with **thin** layer of bearing grease.
    If still tight, use hair-dryer on HIGH or heat-gun on low settings to slowly
    warm the material around the seat of the race.
    Make sure race goes in square, then carefully tap into place, using a piece
    of hardwood or such.
    If seat is recessed deeply, use old race (same orientation so you can knock
    it out again afterwards) as drift-ring.
    I tend to run the anglegrinder through the old race, firstly it's marked as
    "stuffed" and secondly comes out easy if used as drift-ring (remove burs
    first if used for that purpose).

    Came across some real mongrels in the past and used a Dremel with small
    grinding-cones to work my way through the hardening, then slowly and
    CAREFULLY through the material, until it was thin enough to crack it with
    drift and hammer. Takes forever, though...

    glitch1, Dec 31, 2003
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