Which ZZR-1100 would you pick? And a few buying used questions.

I have been looking at 2 x ZZR1100's one is a 1995 model with 53,000 on
the clock 4-1 and in immaculate condition visually anyway for $7900.

The other ZZR I am looking at is a 1992 model with 74,000 on the clock, but
has a few minor scratches on the paintwork (not from being dropped though) ,
could do with a new rear tyre soon and is $6500.

Am I better off paying an extra $1400 just for a ZZR that is 3 years and
22,000 k's younger ?

What sort of k's can this bike do before you have to start spending $$$ on
them.

Also are there any dealers in Perth I should avoid like the plague?

Who in Perth can I get to go over the bikes to see if they are ok and what
test should I get done?

Thanks in Advance
Rob
(Finally getting rid of that f**king GSXR!)

 

You're always better of in terms of retained values to buy the newest one you
can afford all things being equal.

74,000 is nothing for the big Z, so the miles are neither here nor there. I'd
spend the extra 1400 because it's 3years younger and hence in a couple of years
when you want to sell it it will move much more easily.

Pre purchase inspection - the usual - compression test, look for wear, take it
for a ride and assess things like steering head bearings and etc (being a heavy
bike with plenty of grunt the front comes up reasonably easily but it;s hard on
the bearing when you put it back down)

JL

 

Don¹t forget the cost of front tyres. You'll go through them quicker than
you think.

Personally, I'd go for a Z13, a real big Z.

Hammo

 

I did the steering-head bearings on the XJ yesterday.
What an anus of a friggin' job!!
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/bargearse/anus.jpg
It all came back to me as I did it and I remembered that last time (circa 1988) I had to leave the lower race
and only replace the top one 'cause I couldn't get the lower one to budge.
However, I now own an angle-grinder [and cold-chisel] so I replaced both bearing races but I had to leave the
"cones" (or "reverse-cones" or "cups") in place 'cause nothing short of an oxy was gonna budge their
press-fit.
They felt smooth and un-pitted when I ran my finger over them so I wasn't gonna' risk damaging them trying
(and not succeeding) to get them out.
Finally I got it all back together (except the horns which didn't seem to fit anymore) but I overtightened
them so I was pulling [pissweak] wheelies and jamming on the brakes today so try and loosen things up....

No joy though so I'll have to half dismantle it all again tomorrow....
(I'll see if I can put in an LED to light the Sigma while I'm at it.... and maybe even refit the horns!! )
Only two weekends before PI...

 

1988) I had to leave the lower race

bearing races but I had to leave the

gonna' risk damaging them trying

fit anymore) but I overtightened

so try and loosen things up....

and maybe even refit the horns!! )

The best way to budge the races out is to run a bead of weld on them, it
shrinks them and they fall out (worked on the R60).

Boxer

 

Ahh [slaps head] thanks John.
Next time......

 

My workshop it at your disposal.

Boxer

 

Very much appreciated (and hopefully never needed).
Cheers ...... Clem

 

How many K's you getting ?

JL

 

The 95 model for sure the newer the better, not that 20 k's means anything
to a ZZR, but it is always better to have a newer bike.
96 owner.

 

Slartibartfast said....

Sl> Am I better off paying an extra $1400 just for a ZZR that is 3 years and
Sl> 22,000 k's younger ?

Not sure about the 1992 model, but does it have a fuel gauge? Does the
fairing have one or two "nostrils" for the ram air intake?

Sl> What sort of k's can this bike do before you have to start spending $$$
Sl> on them.

My 1990 ZZR had over 100,000 km on it when I sold it. Mech it was in top
shape. Was still good for over 260 km/h and on a trip could easily
exceed 50 mpg. Fanging it dropped that to about 43 mpg, or about 270 km
to "reserve" (flashing red lights on the dash that were annoying and
distracting, especially at night)

Sl> Also are there any dealers in Perth I should avoid like the plague?

Perhaps you should ask, "any recommended dealers". This tends to avoid
defamation suits.

 

Red ZZR11 said....


RZ> I own a 95 ZZR. The black?purple with reflective decals.I reckon its the
RZ> best looking colour scheme and has the dual ram air. Large capacity Z's
RZ> always have been reliable engine wise and I'm talking from experience as

What about sprocket nuts coming off? Supposedly this is an issue. It's
happened to me. I've had to locktite it on, and ensure htat the locking
tab was effectively peened around the nut. Even so, it still came loose.

 

Not sure about the 1992 model, but does it have a fuel gauge? Does the

Yes it has the Twin Air intakes. I beleive its the C3 Model.

Ok folks. Any dealers you would highly reccomend?

 

Not sure about the 1992 model, but does it have a fuel gauge? Does the

Buggered if I know. It has the newer frame, I know that much. As for
the air intake. There is a single intake under the headlight, but there are
2 tubes running off.

 

Never heard that one before, but I'll be checkin' mine in the morning
Had this ZZR for 6 years, no problem.

 

Red ZZR11 said....

RZ> Never heard that one before, but I'll be checkin' mine in the morning
RZ> Had this ZZR for 6 years, no problem.

First time it happened, I just had a high speed spurt, slowed, down,
cruised into town. In the 60 km/h zone a horrible crunching noise came
from the gearbox. Thought I'd lunched it. At the servo, bike on centre
stand, rotated back wheel. This huge nut fell out. Pulled side cover
off. Front sprocket nut, allright.

We locktited it on. A few weeks later I replaced front/rear sprockets
and chain. I found the nut to be loose again.

A few months after that, I decided to check it. Even with locktite and a
locking tab washer fitted, the nut still came loose.

Then I read a letter to editor (tech question) in one of the bike mags
asking about this. The fellow wanted to know how easy it was to drill a
hole on the output shaft so he could insert a splitpin. The mag guy
reckons that short of pulling the gearbox to bits and getting it done
professionally, it'd be near impossible. He also said that yes, this was
a "known" problem with this bike.

Ironically, the same thing happened on my CBR1000 a year or so later.
However, that setup is a bolt rather than a nut. And the speedo drive
sits over the bolt, so that stopped the bolt from coming all the way
out. Also stopped the speedo from working too, that's how I found out.

 

Same here, I have had mine since 98 and have never had that problem.but as
the man said I just might check it.

 

Is there enough thread to put on a second nut as a lock-nut?
Or an enormous split washer between sprock and nut?

-----sharks

 

Check it? If it hasn't fallen off in the first 5 years, it'd probably be a
safe bet that it's tight.

Nev..

 

Is the fault in all models from c series to late D, or any particular year?

Red