Which ZZR-1100 would you pick? And a few buying used questions.

Discussion in 'Australian Motorcycles' started by Slartibartfast, Oct 2, 2003.

  1. I have been looking at 2 x ZZR1100's one is a 1995 model with 53,000 on
    the clock 4-1 and in immaculate condition visually anyway for $7900.

    The other ZZR I am looking at is a 1992 model with 74,000 on the clock, but
    has a few minor scratches on the paintwork (not from being dropped though) ,
    could do with a new rear tyre soon and is $6500.

    Am I better off paying an extra $1400 just for a ZZR that is 3 years and
    22,000 k's younger ?

    What sort of k's can this bike do before you have to start spending $$$ on
    them.

    Also are there any dealers in Perth I should avoid like the plague?

    Who in Perth can I get to go over the bikes to see if they are ok and what
    test should I get done?

    Thanks in Advance
    Rob
    (Finally getting rid of that f**king GSXR!)
     
    Slartibartfast, Oct 2, 2003
    #1
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  2. Slartibartfast

    John Littler Guest

    You're always better of in terms of retained values to buy the newest one you
    can afford all things being equal.

    74,000 is nothing for the big Z, so the miles are neither here nor there. I'd
    spend the extra 1400 because it's 3years younger and hence in a couple of years
    when you want to sell it it will move much more easily.

    Pre purchase inspection - the usual - compression test, look for wear, take it
    for a ride and assess things like steering head bearings and etc (being a heavy
    bike with plenty of grunt the front comes up reasonably easily but it;s hard on
    the bearing when you put it back down)

    JL
     
    John Littler, Oct 3, 2003
    #2
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  3. DonĀ¹t forget the cost of front tyres. You'll go through them quicker than
    you think.

    Personally, I'd go for a Z13, a real big Z.

    Hammo
     
    Hamish Alker-Jones, Oct 3, 2003
    #3
  4. Slartibartfast

    Knobdoodle Guest

    I did the steering-head bearings on the XJ yesterday.
    What an anus of a friggin' job!!
    http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/bargearse/anus.jpg
    It all came back to me as I did it and I remembered that last time (circa 1988) I had to leave the lower race
    and only replace the top one 'cause I couldn't get the lower one to budge.
    However, I now own an angle-grinder [and cold-chisel] so I replaced both bearing races but I had to leave the
    "cones" (or "reverse-cones" or "cups") in place 'cause nothing short of an oxy was gonna budge their
    press-fit.
    They felt smooth and un-pitted when I ran my finger over them so I wasn't gonna' risk damaging them trying
    (and not succeeding) to get them out.
    Finally I got it all back together (except the horns which didn't seem to fit anymore) but I overtightened
    them so I was pulling [pissweak] wheelies and jamming on the brakes today so try and loosen things up....

    No joy though so I'll have to half dismantle it all again tomorrow....
    (I'll see if I can put in an LED to light the Sigma while I'm at it.... and maybe even refit the horns!! )
    Only two weekends before PI...
     
    Knobdoodle, Oct 3, 2003
    #4
  5. Slartibartfast

    Boxer Guest

    1988) I had to leave the lower race
    bearing races but I had to leave the
    gonna' risk damaging them trying
    fit anymore) but I overtightened
    so try and loosen things up....
    and maybe even refit the horns!! )

    The best way to budge the races out is to run a bead of weld on them, it
    shrinks them and they fall out (worked on the R60).

    Boxer
     
    Boxer, Oct 3, 2003
    #5
  6. Slartibartfast

    Knobdoodle Guest

    Ahh [slaps head] thanks John.
    Next time......
     
    Knobdoodle, Oct 3, 2003
    #6
  7. Slartibartfast

    Boxer Guest

    My workshop it at your disposal.

    Boxer
     
    Boxer, Oct 3, 2003
    #7
  8. Slartibartfast

    Knobdoodle Guest

    Very much appreciated (and hopefully never needed).
    Cheers ...... Clem
     
    Knobdoodle, Oct 3, 2003
    #8
  9. Slartibartfast

    John Littler Guest

    How many K's you getting ?

    JL
     
    John Littler, Oct 4, 2003
    #9
  10. Slartibartfast

    Rocatanski Guest

    The 95 model for sure the newer the better, not that 20 k's means anything
    to a ZZR, but it is always better to have a newer bike.
    96 owner.
     
    Rocatanski, Oct 4, 2003
    #10
  11. Slartibartfast said....

    Sl> Am I better off paying an extra $1400 just for a ZZR that is 3 years and
    Sl> 22,000 k's younger ?

    Not sure about the 1992 model, but does it have a fuel gauge? Does the
    fairing have one or two "nostrils" for the ram air intake?

    Sl> What sort of k's can this bike do before you have to start spending $$$
    Sl> on them.

    My 1990 ZZR had over 100,000 km on it when I sold it. Mech it was in top
    shape. Was still good for over 260 km/h and on a trip could easily
    exceed 50 mpg. Fanging it dropped that to about 43 mpg, or about 270 km
    to "reserve" (flashing red lights on the dash that were annoying and
    distracting, especially at night)

    Sl> Also are there any dealers in Perth I should avoid like the plague?

    Perhaps you should ask, "any recommended dealers". This tends to avoid
    defamation suits.
     
    Martin Taylor, Oct 5, 2003
    #11
  12. Red ZZR11 said....


    RZ> I own a 95 ZZR. The black?purple with reflective decals.I reckon its the
    RZ> best looking colour scheme and has the dual ram air. Large capacity Z's
    RZ> always have been reliable engine wise and I'm talking from experience as

    What about sprocket nuts coming off? Supposedly this is an issue. It's
    happened to me. I've had to locktite it on, and ensure htat the locking
    tab was effectively peened around the nut. Even so, it still came loose.
     
    Martin Taylor, Oct 5, 2003
    #12
  13. Not sure about the 1992 model, but does it have a fuel gauge? Does the
    Yes it has the Twin Air intakes. I beleive its the C3 Model.
    Ok folks. Any dealers you would highly reccomend?
     
    Slartibartfast, Oct 5, 2003
    #13
  14. Not sure about the 1992 model, but does it have a fuel gauge? Does the

    Buggered if I know. It has the newer frame, I know that much. As for
    the air intake. There is a single intake under the headlight, but there are
    2 tubes running off.
     
    Slartibartfast, Oct 5, 2003
    #14
  15. Slartibartfast

    Red ZZR11 Guest

    Never heard that one before, but I'll be checkin' mine in the morning :)
    Had this ZZR for 6 years, no problem.
     
    Red ZZR11, Oct 5, 2003
    #15
  16. Red ZZR11 said....

    RZ> Never heard that one before, but I'll be checkin' mine in the morning :)
    RZ> Had this ZZR for 6 years, no problem.

    First time it happened, I just had a high speed spurt, slowed, down,
    cruised into town. In the 60 km/h zone a horrible crunching noise came
    from the gearbox. Thought I'd lunched it. At the servo, bike on centre
    stand, rotated back wheel. This huge nut fell out. Pulled side cover
    off. Front sprocket nut, allright.

    We locktited it on. A few weeks later I replaced front/rear sprockets
    and chain. I found the nut to be loose again.

    A few months after that, I decided to check it. Even with locktite and a
    locking tab washer fitted, the nut still came loose.

    Then I read a letter to editor (tech question) in one of the bike mags
    asking about this. The fellow wanted to know how easy it was to drill a
    hole on the output shaft so he could insert a splitpin. The mag guy
    reckons that short of pulling the gearbox to bits and getting it done
    professionally, it'd be near impossible. He also said that yes, this was
    a "known" problem with this bike.

    Ironically, the same thing happened on my CBR1000 a year or so later.
    However, that setup is a bolt rather than a nut. And the speedo drive
    sits over the bolt, so that stopped the bolt from coming all the way
    out. Also stopped the speedo from working too, that's how I found out.
     
    Martin Taylor, Oct 6, 2003
    #16
  17. Slartibartfast

    Rocatanski Guest

    Same here, I have had mine since 98 and have never had that problem.but as
    the man said I just might check it.
     
    Rocatanski, Oct 6, 2003
    #17
  18. Slartibartfast

    sharkey Guest

    Is there enough thread to put on a second nut as a lock-nut?
    Or an enormous split washer between sprock and nut?

    -----sharks
     
    sharkey, Oct 6, 2003
    #18
  19. Slartibartfast

    Nev.. Guest

    Check it? If it hasn't fallen off in the first 5 years, it'd probably be a
    safe bet that it's tight.

    Nev..
     
    Nev.., Oct 7, 2003
    #19
  20. Slartibartfast

    Red ZZR11 Guest

    Is the fault in all models from c series to late D, or any particular year?

    Red
     
    Red ZZR11, Oct 7, 2003
    #20
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