Why...

....can't everyone put 17mm hex head lumps on the end of their oil
filters like wot K&N do? It makes life so much more civilised.

 

You mean a 64mm tetradecagon isn't civilised enough?
It wasn't very civilised when my Suzuki socket slipped on the Suzuki filter
so I had to take off the exhaust and chisel the damned thing off....

 

If that's the flats on most filters, then no. They're different sizes
needing different 'special' tools, which can be a pita or simply
impossible to get into place on some bikes/cars.

I've never had to resort to anything more brutal than banging a
screwdriver through them. That's not the best way to tighten them
though.

 

Don't go thinking K+N filters are really good either, they are made by
Hi-flo, just with a different casing. ITYF Suzuki ones are about the
same money as K+N, and I know what I'd rather fit, even if you do need
a special tool to remove it.

 

The special tools cost about 2-99 each from Hein Gericke, they do 3
sizes that fit the majority of bikes on UK roads. Never had a problem
getting access to a filter unless an aftermarket full system has been
fitted.

 

Hi-Flo are very good. I spent yonks researching filters as MV ones are
stupidly expensive. Pure One are probably the best but hard to come by
over here.

 

I read an automotive engineers report on filters that showed them to be
inferior to OE, but I'd be interested to see other people's findings.
We sell Hi-flo at work and I've used plenty of them in the past with no
problems, but given a choice of OE or Hi-flo I'd take OE every time.
The price difference isn't great, a common or garden Kawasaki fitment
Hi-flo filter is 7 quid, Genuine is another quid on top. Other
manufacturer's OE filters are all priced around the same.

 

Depends on the manufacturer. There was a study in a foreign mag
recently (Swedish I think) where the Toyota OE filter came last for
filtration. And the original MV filters, made by Champion, didn't even
have a drainback valve. Chances are it was the same with other
Champion-made OE filters. Yet Champion badged filters are one of the
better ones.

I use whichever's most convenient out of OE, K&N/Hi-Flo, Champion or
Bosch.

 

Local Motor Factors seem to stock Mahle for everything, Jaguar
specialists dish out Crossflow.

Not sure if they're any good mind...

 

Mahle are supposed to be very good. No idea about Crossflow.

 

Coz if they did, Snap-On wouldn't have been able to sell me a spiffing
adjustable and (so far) totally unbeaten filter clampy thing.

 

Is it one of those things with 3 legs that move closer together as you
turn the central nut? If so, it won't work on MVs or 955 Tigers.

 

And won't fit a new filter without scratching it.

 

huh? I've never needed a tool to fit a filter. Hand tighten only.

 

It's not always possible to get a hand in (fnaar). And the SV workshop
manual specifically says not to hand tighten, but do two full turns
once the gasket touches the face. I've no idea if it's possible to do
two full turns by hand - didn't need to find out thanks to the K&N's
nut.

 

My chain wrench has never failed so far. Just a loop of chain and a
socket to fit a half inch drive. Loop over the filter, apply force
and the chain tightens onto the filter. Available from most decent
motor accessory shops. Appropriate half inch extension bars etc
required for awkward spaces.
OTOH someone will pop up and claim that they can crush a really tight
one but if its that tight you are fucked anyway.

 

Got one of them too, & again, it won't work on an MV or 955, & you
wouldn't want to use it for tightening a filter.

 

I've just changed the filter on the MX5 this morning. The one I put on
last was a Champion which has done 3000 miles and about 12 months. I was
going to change it when I put Mobil 1 in it about 1000 miles ago, but I
gave up trying to get it off as ICBA to crawl underneath as I had to the
last time and I just couldn't shift it. The Mobil 1 made a marked
difference to the hydraulic tappet noise on cold starts, but lately I
had been noticing a very slight delay before the oil pressure gauge
popped up to normal with a bit of noise. Not exactly 'cranky', but
slightly concerning (engine has done 111,000).

Today, perhaps because I did it on a cold engine but a hot day (no
danger of burning myself, but not a bit of expansion to help) it
succumbed to the left hand that you can just a bout get a grip of it
with from under the bonnet. I've fitted a 'Mazda' filter, and the gauge
flicks up instantly now. Given the right-angled mounting of the filter
I'm wondering if it was a drain back valve issue. Problem is that I
can't remember now if it was OK when first fitted, just that I have been
noticing it recently. OK, so it is a very small filter and I see now
that the recommended interval is, like the oil, 3000 miles or 3 months.
Given modern synthetic oil like Mobil 1, and the mileage I do (when it
is taken, out it is well and truly warmed up), I'm inclined to risk
leaving the oil in for 12 months. Do filters 'age'?


--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

I've got a 1/2 in drive Draper Oil Filter Strap Wrench. Works a treat.

 

On 21/06/2010 14:55, Pete Fisher wrote:

Do filters 'age'?

The one I removed from a BMW 323 recently did.
Obviously not been changed for years as it was brittle
and fell apart when I removed the cover.