The power supply lead for my PDA has a cigarette lighter-type plug on one end. What I want to do is wire in a socket, probably under the seat, and then cable-tie the lead at necesary points to get the lead up to the handlebars. I guess I need: 1) the socket and wiring (Maplins 99p for the socket) 2) cableties 3) to know where it is sensible to wire the new socket into 4) lots of insulating tape 5) 1/2 a brain 3 and 5 are causing the most trouble at the moment. Anyone out there wired in any acessories on a Sprint ST? -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Jeremy 6) a fuse. With one of those in line, and assuming you're not fussed about the supply being ignition-controlled, just go straight back to the battery. -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000
I would concur with all of this. Somewhere in the depths of Google there is a thread where I asked this same question and got some good answers. On my Strom, running off the battery I currently have 2x Power sockets (of which I use one for the GPS, similar in concept to what you're thinking I guess) , 1x Optimate connector, oh and the bike. Each of the power sockets has a blade fuse holder (and the fuse) wired into it and cable tied neatly in place. The heated grips are wired (I think into the rear light circuit, I didn't install these[1]) to an ignition controlled switch. The socket you get from Maplin doesn't always make the best connections, so be prepared to use some of your insulating tape to keep the plug in the socket. You'll also need a soldering iron if the socket is like the one I had. [1] though I did install the second set, and boy can you tell).
I guess this means attaching some kind connecter to the leads from the socket which slips over the battery terminals. The device takes a 5v input / 2A (I guess the cigarette lighter-style plug also houses a transformer) - what rating fuse would I want? 3A? Many thanks. -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
Combine my soldering skills with native dodgy connections... should be uber reliable... -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Jeremy It does. Crimp on connectors would be favourite. Depends on the rating of the wire that you use, the rating of the socket and what you want to power from it. 3 or 5A should be plenty. You're not far from me (North Herts), IIRC. Do you want to pop over one evening / weekend and I'll sort it for you? Ten minute job. Cheers -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000
Jeremy wrote That is probably it's peak load and only ever seen for a few milliseconds after initial switch on. Likely the steady draw is only three quarters of that. Rule of thumb time... A melting wire fuse will (theoretically) last forever when passing an electrical current less than or equal to it's own rating. A fuse will operate at some time between now and infinity if the current being passed is greater than its stated operating rating but less than (approx) twice said stated operating rating. At a current above twice the stated operating rating the fuse will operate instantly (for values of instant controlled a little by the laws of thermodynamics). A techie will select a fuse whose rating is approx twice that of the highest normal load to be expected to be passed. An engineer will go for the next value above 2.5 unless some extreme safety thing is in the equation as well in which case it is a case select the smallest one which keeps the kit working until it is off the retailers shelves.
Thanks, very kind offer. I am NE Hampshire (as opposed to Northamptonshire) so I reckon I'll have a crack myself this weekend - it sounds really simple. -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Jeremy It is. Right up to the bit where it catches fire. :^) Put the fuse in the positive lead, as close to the battery as you can comfortably get it, and you should be fine. -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000
Jeremy wrote Soldering?? What fucking century does your planet live in? Crimp connectors mate, the ONLY answer.
I had to cut a major chunk out of the Tiger's loom a couple of weeks ago. This involved snipping off all the connectors at the front of the bike (lights, instruments, idiot lights, swich gear, fan, sensors etc), then cutting 12-18" off the loom, & re-connecting all the connectors. It took around 12 hours of soldering & heat shrinking, but the results are worth it. Crimps are for bodgers! -- Krusty. http://www.muddystuff.co.uk http://www.muddystuff.us Off-road classifieds '02 MV Senna '03 Tiger (FOYRNB) '96 Tiger '79 Fantic 250
dwb wrote Well apart from the obvious statement that Maplins are hardly leaders in new technology roll out to the retail sector, you bring yer money and yer connectors and I'll bring me 81's and give it a go.
Krusty wrote Calling me a bodger are you sonny? Bring it on.[1] [1]I was on this training course once and we had to make a radio with valves and everything as an exercise in sorting wiring layout and high frequency shit. After I made mine and got it to work they took it next door to the prototype wireman's course to show them how the soldering should be done and what loom lacing looks like when it is done proper like.
Yay, finally got a "sonny". MWHID. -- Krusty. http://www.muddystuff.co.uk http://www.muddystuff.us Off-road classifieds '02 MV Senna '03 Tiger (FOYRNB) '96 Tiger '79 Fantic 250
Ah fuggit. <rotates chair slightly to point other shoulder at sun> No, I suppose not. -- Krusty. http://www.muddystuff.co.uk http://www.muddystuff.us Off-road classifieds '02 MV Senna '03 Tiger (FOYRNB) '96 Tiger '79 Fantic 250
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Krusty I'm not sure that's true. I got mine quite recently. You need that nice Mr Noxgaga, you do. -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000
Widdershins three times and blow a puff of smoke or something, innit? -- Dave GS850x2 XS650 SE6a Every post contains Nutri-Ceramide-R and Pre-Biotics for your reading pleasure. Folding@Home Team UKRM http://vspx27.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/main.py?qtype=teampage&teamnum=47957
