muddy wrote: [QUOTE] No, amateur.[/QUOTE] FFS He was only asking.
IMO there's nothing wrong with using scotchlocks as long as: 1. You cover them thoroughly with self-amalgammating tape to stop water getting in. 2. You don't overload the switched output and use relays as and when appropriate; i.e. use the scotchlock to feed the relay coil.
Ahh, so that's not a big ten four then rubber duck. -- Dan L (Oldbloke) My bike 1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr Space in shed where NSR125 used to be Spare Bike 1990 Suzuki TS50X (Patio Ornament) BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005/6), X-FOT#000, DIAABTCOD #26, BOMB#18 (slow), OMF#11
Ah hah - you have a power commander? Did you have the bike without it first ? I'm interested in potentially getting one, but I want to know if they actually make any difference - what have you found? On mine there is a definite glitch with the FI around 3k RPM, but otherwise it's pretty good. I'm impressed by how much you've stuck on yours when I consider you've had it a fair bit of time less than I've had mine Have you got other exhausts yet? The most likely things I'll get if I keep it are a Power Commander and two (in an ideal world) Akrapovich (or similar) cans - should knock about 10% off the weight of the back and move the CoG a bit. Underseat storage is surprisingly roomy I found if you move the toolkit out of the holder and put it back by the rear light.
It was difficult to do anything low speed. I'd have to keep the revs up and slip the clutch otherwise it would jerk about and then stall. Not good when you are filtering or riding on a fire road. I had an idea of what I wanted to do when I bought the bike. I'm not planning to change the cans. I need to keep it quiet due to where I live. There's 2 cunts that live down the road from me that have harleys with open exhausts. I want to keep a low profile. I don't think 5 or 10 HP change is worth the cost either. The fucker will go faster than I need now. Yep, the lube tube, PC and the tool kit.
Very interesting - as that's exactly what I have with mine - low speed manouvers can be scary in that the bike is hard to control and very jerky. Exactly as you say this shows itself most when filtering, or for me, doing right turns (so a left turn for you) - particularly worrying when it's wet. I'd originally put this down (as per my previous posts on this) as the gearing not being quite right - but if it's the FI....did you find the PC improves this, straight out the box as it were? If so, then I'm definitely going to get one as that is one thing I could say really DOES bother me and is hard to ride round (slipping the clutch excessively has it's own perils IMO). Re the cans - I'd be looking at road legal ones - I want the weight saving, not an increase in noise.
You need the proper map for your bike, but once that's loaded it'll run fine. Ah, right. I didn't know anyone made road legal cans for it. Let me know what you find as I'd be interested too.
I thought with the V-Strom it was for emission reasons. The SV-1000 and the TL use basically the same engine and I have never heard of low speed engine problems with either of them.
OK well this is what we have - which of course works in my limited testing (about 50 miles or this afternoon). I used a scotchlock connector (well bound with insultaing tape) to tap into the tail light circuit (+) - this then runs into a 5A fuse and then to the cigarette lighter socket. The -ve from here is connected directly to the battery -ve. Into the cigarette lighter socket I plugged in the PDA's transformer and routed its power lead up to the headstock. A few cable ties (allowing sufficient slack) and, though I say so myself, a bloody neat job. Now here's the question to you and WUN - having ignored the advice above (as I didn't know what kind of relay to get nor how it would need t be wired in and I was too imaptient to not get something working) - what is it that a relay safeguards against in this kind of situation? Is it a problem related to the different currents drawn on the same circuit? I mean it appears to work perfectly at the moment... seriously if there is a real risk of doing some kind of damage then I'll rewire it this week, but am looking for some guidance here (please). cheers -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
Two issues here: 1. You used insulating tape; that won't keep the moisture out and there is a risk that water will find its way into the cable and corrode the wire over time. 2. By not using a relay you run a risk of overloading the circuit to the rear light; carry spare fuses (for the original rear light circuit) in case they blow.
Jeremy wrote Sort of. In this type of application (typical in automotive environments) a relay is used as a low power switch to switch a (separate) high current circuit. Just like the little flimsy button under your right thumb acts to provide a tiny current to a relay which switches on a larger current and makes your starter motor spin.
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Jeremy Well since you're ignoring the advice, there's not a whole hell of a lot of point in repeating it, is there? ;^) -- Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41 SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner", Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big" Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000
Awww come on.... if I understand what it safeguards and how to wire it... then I can follow the advice. And no, I'm not begging (much). -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
So does the relay have a couple of inputs and one output? Its purpose then would be to for example sit between the battery +ve and the device you want to power. Also feeding into it would be a wire from the (in this example) rear light circuit (or perhaps the relay sits in-line in the chosen low current circuit). When the lights are switched on, current flows to the relay which then opens the circuit from the battery to the device? I guess the wiring is probably more complicated than that but have I got the gist of it? -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
Ah - the reference to "self-amalgammating tape" - I filtered out everything except the last word as that is what I have in the garage. Ok this is because that circuit might be designed to carry 3A say and if I go and double that then I'm buying trouble? Then I now follow why taking the positive straight from the battery was suggested. -- jeremy '01 Triumph Sprint ST in green _______________________________________ jeremy0505 at gmail.com
