you get what you pay for...

Well, you do get what you pay for.

I have an '02 SV-650 with nearly 50,000 miles on it, and I bought a new
DL-650. The DL really highlighted just how bad the SV clutch had gotten.

So I got one of those cheap EBC clutch plate kits. That was a big
mistake. It was a little better, but the friction zone was still rather
marginal. I checked the actuator, filed off the notches in the clutch
basket, sanded the gum off the steels, checked the cable and cable
routing. Still rather poor.

I finally stumped for the OEM plates since I had to buy a special bolt
for my rear brake. I figured there was no sense paying $8 shipping for
an $8 bolt and I'd wanted the plates for a while.

Anyway, after soaking them in oil for two days, I did a straight swap.
Oh my god, the difference! It does feel like a new clutch now.

You can see why stock is $70 vs. $20 for EBC. The OEM plates are thinner
with thicker friction material vs the EBC thick plates with almost
painted-on friction material. The OEM plates are better machined vs the
EBC worn-die stampings, and the fingers are actually the proper width to
fit in the basket. The OEM friction material doesn't chip off if you
look at it funny like the EBC stuff does.

EBC brake pads are crap, I don't know why I thought their clutch plates
might be worthwhile.

The SV is now fun to ride again.

-gc

 

Really? Like what?

I know I have to order OEM Suzuki brake pads online because the local
dealer only wants to push EBC.

-gc

 

***********************************

The "KG Clutch Factory" spring and discs kits are available for your
bike from PU. Look here:
http://street.parts-unlimited.com/17/328/4093056 .

As a m/c dealer, I was told that KG supplies the OEM friction discs
for many of the Japanese brands.

I like the DunlopPad friction discs, but they are not cheap.


Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF

 

*************************************************************

It's very hard to beat the wear life of the OEM Nissin brake pads.
They last for a long long time. I am just now changing the rear pads
for the first time on my GasGas.
(20 months of regular use in all sorts of conditions. BlackJack,
SERA, & TSCEC enduros.
AHSCS hare scrambles.
Lots of trail riding: http://members.cox.net/jejb/Wudi9/wudi9.html.)

The only aftermarket pads (that I am aware of) that give anywhere
near the wear life of the OEM pads, are the DunlopPad (DP) brake pads.
Look here: http://street.parts-unlimited.com/5/160/3997237
The DP brake pads (also sold as "Moose") are not as abrasive to the
rotors as the EBC pads, and wear three times longer.
These are the only pads that I use on my GasGas, since the Nissin pads
(through GasGas) are around $70 per set.


Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF

 

Not unless I really insist and raise a stink. It's changed since the new
manangement, not that it was terrific before, but at least it was decent.

-gc

 

"KG Clutch Factory springs are approximately 20% stronger than OEM" so
I'll skip on the springs.

Plus at $60 it's only $10 cheaper than stock. And the $85 "kevlar
series" is even more expensive than stock.

I wonder why they don't recommend the "pro" plates for the DL-650?

-gc

 

They don't out-and-out refuse, they just make it really difficult.

Last time I ordered parts from them, it was January, and it was
September before I got them. Thank $DIETY for ronayers.com!

-gc

 

Ah.. the good old days...

We did that for bikes too. Usually there also were two or three hollow
rivets
to keep the material in place.
It was almost white, very soft material. Brand name was Ferodo.
We filed the leading and trailing ends with a coarse file.
I must have inhaled a lot of asbestos.

And the friction material for a wet clutch was cork.
I still know how to get those oversized pieces
into smaller holes.

Rob.


Rob.