ZX10R Front Sprocket Removal

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by RichardA, Jul 27, 2008.

  1. RichardA

    RichardA Guest

    As per subject. Is there an easy/reccommended way of undoing the
    sprocket nut?

    TIA
     
    RichardA, Jul 27, 2008
    #1
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  2. RichardA

    Lozzo Guest

    Easy - you need an 8mm socket on a ratchet with a short extension,
    hammer, a small chisel, 27mm deep socket[1] and a breaker bar.

    8mm socket for the casing screws, there's no need to remove the gear
    linkage cos it doesn't go through the casing, but do remove the speedo
    sensor first as the cables hold the case back when trying to get it
    off. Small chisel and hammer to flatten out the lock washer, 27mm deep
    socket to remove the nut after sticking the bike in gear and propping
    the front wheel against a wall. Get a mate to sit on the bike with the
    rear brake on hard while you hang on the breaker bar - it should crack
    off easily enough. Be careful not to demolish the lock washer when
    you're flattening it so you can reuse it.

    I've changed the front sprocket on Danny's old race ZX10R[2] hundreds
    of times. The only real pain in the arse is getting the casing back on
    as the dowels are a tight fit. Don't forget to prise the lockwasher
    back up after torquing the big nut down.

    [1] Same as used for the rear wheel spindle nut
    [2] He sold it, Daytona 675 on its way.
     
    Lozzo, Jul 27, 2008
    #2
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  3. RichardA

    Guest

    Rattle gun.
     
    , Jul 27, 2008
    #3
  4. RichardA

    Ace Guest

    Bwaahaaha.

    You never fail to deliver, do you?

    --
    _______
    ..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
    \`\ | /`/
    `\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
    `\|/`
    `
     
    Ace, Jul 27, 2008
    #4
  5. RichardA

    Lozzo Guest

    Use a rattle gun on a ZX10R sprocket nut and you're likely to **** it
    up royally. the section of the nut that is 27mm isn't that deep,
    there's a good chance you'll slip off and round the nut.
     
    Lozzo, Jul 27, 2008
    #5
  6. RichardA

    RichardA Guest

    Cheers Loz.
    --
    Richard

    XJ900S
    BOTAFOT #138, YTC#18, OMF#12

    Email-remove insult to reply
     
    RichardA, Jul 27, 2008
    #6
  7. RichardA

    Guest

    And your problem is ?.
    Think about it, pure rotary force or a long bar twisting the same socket.
     
    , Jul 27, 2008
    #7
  8. RichardA

    Ace Guest

    Have you ever actually used a rattle gun?

    --
    _______
    ..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
    \`\ | /`/
    `\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
    `\|/`
    `
     
    Ace, Jul 27, 2008
    #8
  9. RichardA

    Guest

    And a much bigger chance of doing the same thing using a breaker bar
    with its twisting moment, assuming the same socket.
    The rattle gun is LEAST likely to slip because its force is purely
    rotary and properly centered.
     
    , Jul 27, 2008
    #9
  10. RichardA

    Guest

    Surely if you lean hard against it you're no more likely to do this
    than with a ratchet? Personally I'd go for the rattle gun every time;
    possibly followed by the dremel and a cold chisel...
     
    , Jul 27, 2008
    #10
  11. RichardA

    Guest

    I have two and I know how to use them.
    The 3/4 drive one is not a good idea on small stuff.
    The little 1/2" drive fella is great if you know how to set it properly
    and use the correct pressure for the job.
    http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=2798&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

    Naturally there are idiots in this world who try to use them without
    the correct impact rated sockets and with everything set to max.
     
    , Jul 27, 2008
    #11
  12. RichardA

    Eiron Guest

    The force is purely rotary if you use a wobble bar with a block of wood
    under one end.
    http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...t-wobble-b/path/socket-sets-sockets-tool-sets
    Or you could just hold both ends of the breaker bar.

    A 'T' handle for 1/2" drive sockets would be useful though. Does such a
    thing exist?
     
    Eiron, Jul 27, 2008
    #12
  13. RichardA

    Adrian Guest

    Adrian, Jul 27, 2008
    #13
  14. RichardA

    Eiron Guest

    Eiron, Jul 27, 2008
    #14
  15. RichardA

    Beav Guest

    For undoing things, it makes no difference unless the gun is too big to get
    near the job.
    And oddly, that one produces more reverse torque that a LOT of 3/4 drives.
    675 feety pounds they do. A bloody good rattler too.
    If you've got a snotty looking Snap-on socket you'd like replacing, slap 'em
    on a Snap-on rattler then hand the socket to "the man" after it's done its
    job


    --
    Beav

    VN 750
    Zed 1000
    OMF# 19
     
    Beav, Jul 27, 2008
    #15
  16. RichardA

    Lozzo Guest

    The 10R uses exactly the same nut as the 9R, the depth of the 27mm
    portion of that nut is really shallow which is easy to slip off and
    round. I'd rather have something I have total control over, than
    something whizzing at Xrpm and not slowing or stopping exactly when I
    want it to. With a breaker bar I have total control over how much force
    is exerted, and I can see if it's going off centre and stop immediately
    to reseat it. On a deeper nut I'd recommend a rattle gun, but not with
    these type.
     
    Lozzo, Jul 28, 2008
    #16
  17. RichardA

    Lozzo Guest

    I have one of those, it's crap for undoing front sprocket nuts -
    nowhere near long enough to put the required amount of torque into the
    job.
     
    Lozzo, Jul 28, 2008
    #17
  18. RichardA

    Guest

    The guys at Watling tyres popped the tiger one off in about 3 seconds
    with a rattle gun. I'd have preferred a breaker bar, to reduce the
    shock load on the gearbox internals, but it seemed to go ok.

    I wasn't sure how they were going to do it, but I couldn't be arsed
    getting oily, and they are more used to moving / removing rear wheels.

    Cheers,

    Paul.
     
    , Jul 28, 2008
    #18
  19. RichardA

    Guest

    Part of your problem is the chamfer on the nose of most sockets which
    is there to help it easily onto the nut. If you are dealing with very
    thin nuts this leaves only a tiny amount of the nut actually in the
    body of the socket and creates a tendency for the socket to cam off of
    the nut.
    Grind of the chamfered nose of the socket and all will be well.
     
    , Jul 28, 2008
    #19
  20. RichardA

    Guest

    This was the Catford branch. I do watch what they're doing, and the
    replacement of the sprocket was spot on.

    They did overtighten the chain, but then I always check such things
    before I leave the premesis, since it's hard to judge when it's on the
    centre stand.

    They do a lot of courier bikes, and they're still in business, so I
    suppose with their turnover they'll let the odd turkey through.

    P.
     
    , Jul 28, 2008
    #20
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