ZX9R-C1 No oil presure ?

OK, so I've just fitted another gearbox because mine was jumping out of
4th when engine breaking. I've put the limp back in the frame connected up
the wires ready to check that the oil pressure light goes out. Remove the
spark plugs, filled up with oil to the half way mark and pressed the
button. After 5 secs the oil light was still on DOH
I checked to see if oil was circulating by removing the oil filter. No
squirty squirty when I press the starter. I first though that the oil pick
up pipe had fallen out, but no it was intact. I then thought the oil pump
wasn't turning, I removed the water pump to view the spindle. It turn
when I press the button. I'm at a loss what to do next. I've removed
the oils pressure switch expecting to see oil squirting out of that. But
alas no. I guess it's not sucking up the oil from the sump. I would have
expected to see the oil level drop quick as the oil circulated.

Any suggestions?

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, eric the brave

Did you use Hermetite or anything similar when you put the lump back
together?

Sure you haven't left a spanner / rag in the sump? ;^)

Other than that, I'd be really tempted to stick a squirt of oil into the
cams and down the bores and fire the sucker up for a few seconds to see
if that "cures" the problem.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - There are few things in life more sinister than a
public toilet with the lid closed.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

That's what I thought. I've had the oil pump off, nothing in there. Then
it's a straight pipe to the oil filter. Which I removed. It's like it's
got an air block or something. very strange. The sump strainer pipe is a
good tight fit as well. Perhaps I need to fill it right up to the top of
the window. I need some more cheap oil; to test it first. The only other
thing I can think of is a pin or something missing from the drive gear on
the other side where the pump shaft is run off the clutch I think. But
that was never taken off.

Much thinking is going on...

 

That was crap because I tightened the bolt on the end of the water pump
impeller and the shaft didn't turn. So It's connected up OK.

 

Hmm... it might be one of those oil pumps that has to be lightly packed
with vaseline on refitting. Unusual but it happens. You occasionally get
a pump that just won't self-prime after a rebuild, but is fine
subsequently.

 

Trouble is, it's the bit before the "subsequently" that is painful.....

 

Spot on Mr Bling. Well sort of, I filled the thing up to the top of the
sight glass last night and went to bed. This morning after 10 secs on the
starter with no plugs in the pressure light went out. I guess I was just
being over cautious.

 

Or as the case may be the pump is fine but the rest is FUBAR...

 

Or, as the case may be: the switch is fucked and the rest is fine.

 

Switch is fine. The system works at about 26 PSI and the switch worked.

It's the half a newspaper up the oil pipe that was worrying me. But all
was well in the end. All I need to do now is fit the full Akropovik(sp)
back on add the newly kitted carbs[1], and see if the kit makes a
difference.

[1] Factory tuning kit.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Beav

Not after three weeks it won't, no.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - There are few things in life more sinister than a
public toilet with the lid closed.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000